Food / Field notes

When I Want a Proper Burger in Singapore, I Go to Wildfire

Wildfire Ultimate Cheeseburger on a white plate, with five-cheese melt spilling from a glossy brioche bun

When I want a proper burger in Singapore, I go to Wildfire.

I have been going there for about four years, since before the restaurant moved to UE Square. So this is not a verdict based on one photogenic lunch.

The burger test

My rule is simple: a burger should taste mainly of beef.

I have had too many burgers where the sauce hides the meat. At Wildfire, the beef is cooked over binchotan charcoal and applewood, so it tastes smoky and juicy. The brioche bun is soft and toasted, and the cheese and pickles do not drown it out.

The Ultimate Cheeseburger has five cheeses, onions, cornichons and sauce. It sounds excessive, but it works: the burger holds together and the beef is still easy to taste.

The salt-and-vinegar onion rings are worth ordering too.

Music and dessert

On the wall, a mechanical Vestaboard connected to Spotify clatters into place to show the current track. It is wonderfully unnecessary.

There is good beer and there are cocktails, but the strangest thing I ordered was soft serve with Oscietra caviar and olive oil. The ice cream is sweet and milky; the caviar is salty and briny; the olive oil makes it smoother. It sounds odd, but the contrast works. I would order it again.

The staff are warm, the music is good, and the burgers keep bringing me back.

The restaurant moved. I kept going.

Thanks for reading.Denya
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Soft serve with caviar?

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